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The advertising campaigns and lingerie sets that followed were dreamed up from men’s sexual fantasies, rather than making any claim of “empowering” women through garters and bralets. The company itself was founded in 1977 by a man named Roy Raymond who “imagined it as a haven for straight men, something more titillating than the mainstream department-store offerings but less salacious and fringe than sex shops”. As noted by the Atlantic, its former president, Howard Gross, boasted of “never conducting any research into what actual women wanted from their underwear or their lives”. Meanwhile, Victoria’s Secret has not hidden its debt to male fantasies. The brand is speaking directly to a contemporary audience hungry for a less narrow and prescriptive representation of sexiness. Rihanna’s vision for Savage X Fenty, which launched with more than 90 styles of bras, knickers, bodysuits, rompers and robes, has been designed by her for women like her – who, as she put it, might be “a curvy girl with thighs and a little bit of booty and hips”. Photograph: JP Yim/Getty Images for Savage X Fenty The Savage X Fenty fall/winter 2018 show at New York fashion week. The chain has struggled to resonate with younger buyers, who appear to be choosing comfort over seduction, and will close 53 stores in the US alone this year. While the company still generated sales of $7.4bn (£6bn) in 2018, its market share dropped from 33% to 24% in just two years. But mainly Victoria’s Secret has suffered for failing to adapt to social and consumer change, unable to influence the cultural zeitgeist in a way it once did. Epstein used his close friendship with Leslie Wexner, then head of the retailer’s parent company L Brands, to facilitate his alleged crimes against young girls. The brand best known for its frou-frou polyester knicker sets and fairy wings has been battered by its association with convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein, who falsely posed as a model scout for the company. Rihanna’s event will be streamed on 20 September by Amazon Prime, and is expected to be aggressively marketed to its app users and customer base, propelling the viewership and sales far beyond the reach of any other show.Īfter a 20-year tenure and posting its worst ever viewing figures last year, Victoria’s Secret’s annual show won’t be broadcast on television at all this year. This year she is making no bones about occupying the space created by the fast-declining but still dominant Victoria’s Secret. Last year Rihanna staged a direct assault on the traditionally hard-bodied, Barbie-doll aesthetic entrenched in the multibillion-dollar underwear industry by including plus size and pregnant models on her catwalk. As per her debut last year, which was celebrated as a game-changing “festival of flesh of all skin tones” by Vogue, the spectacle is expected to be diverse, inclusive and attended by fashion and celebrity A-listers. This Tuesday the star, named the world’s richest female musician by Forbes, will be mounting her second Savage X Fenty show at an as-yet-to-be-disclosed Brooklyn venue. But if the hype around Rihanna’s new collection is anything to go by, the industry is bracing itself for a wobble. F lesh rolls, stretch marks and dimpled thighs aren’t a traditional mainstay of New York fashion week, nor are lingerie shows ever deemed to have a finger on the pulse. Often in existing buildings “you will have timber where there’s compression, and where that makes sense, and then it will have really skinny steel members, in tension, where that makes sense. “It’s about choosing materials more smartly,” she says, for the specifics of a given application. While they have shown improvements of at least 10 percent can be achieved, she says those estimates are “not exactly apples to apples” and likely savings could actually be two to three times that. The tools they developed, which were the basis for Ching’s master’s thesis, can be applied at different stages, either in the early planning phase of a structure, or later on in the final stages of a design.Īs an exercise, the team developed a proposal for reengineering several trusses using these optimization tools, and demonstrated that a significant savings in embodied greenhouse gas emissions could be achieved with no loss of performance. One tradeoff is that “the weight of the structure is going to be bigger than it would be with steel,” she says. Carstensen says that in general, wood is far better than steel in terms of embedded carbon, so “especially if you have a structure that doesn't have any tension, then you should definitely only use timber” in order to minimize emissions. Wood performs very well under forces of compression, but not as well as steel when it comes to tension - that is, a tendency to pull the structure apart. The new system makes use of a technique called topology optimization, which allows for the input of basic parameters, such as the amount of load to be supported and the dimensions of the structure, and can be used to produce designs optimized for different characteristics, such as weight, cost, or, in this case, global warming impact. However, there has been “surprisingly little work” on tools to help designers figure out emissions-minimizing strategies for a given situation, she says. The two main options in reducing the carbon emissions associated with truss structures, she says, are substituting materials or changing the structure. But in recent years building designers “are starting to be more focused on how to not just reduce the operating energy associated with building use, but also the important carbon associated with the structure itself.” And that’s where this new analysis comes in. “Construction is a huge greenhouse gas emitter that has kind of been flying under the radar for the past decades,” says Carstensen. The analysis is described in a paper published in the journal Engineering Structures, by graduate student Ernest Ching and MIT assistant professor of civil and environmental engineering Josephine Carstensen. While in general wood produces a much lower carbon footprint, using steel in places where its properties can provide maximum benefit can provide an optimized result, they say. Now, researchers at MIT have done a detailed analysis and created a set of computational tools to enable architects and engineers to design truss structures in a way that can minimize their embodied carbon while maintaining all needed properties for a given building application. It also includes the equipment used for the construction itself. The “embodied carbon” in a construction material includes the fuel used in the material’s production (for mining and smelting steel, for example, or for felling and processing trees) and in transporting the materials to a site. But little quantitative research has been done on how to pick the right materials to minimize these structures’ contribution global warming. Truss structures - those crisscross arrays of diagonal struts used throughout modern construction, in everything from antenna towers to support beams for large buildings - are typically made of steel or wood or a combination of both. alīuildings are a big contributor to global warming, not just in their ongoing operations but in the materials used in their construction. view moreĬredit: Image courtesy of Ernest Ching, Josephine Carstensen et. Image: Researchers at MIT have created a set of computational tools to enable architects and engineers to design truss structures in a way that can minimize their embodied carbon while maintaining all needed properties for a given building application. It can improve the overall graphics experience and performance in either games or various engineering software applications, include support for newly developed technologies, add compatibility with newer GPU chipsets, or resolve different problems that might have been encountered. 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If the driver is already installed on your system, updating (overwrite-installing) may fix various issues, add new functions, or just upgrade to the available version. The package provides the installation files for AMD Radeon HD 6550D Graphics Driver version 15.201.1151.0. “You succumb to the system,” Shaw continues. “When you was a little homie, did you always dream of harassin’ Black people for their appliances?” Shaw asks Simon, inducing an identity crisis in the upward-striving schlemiel. The guys come slinking back to their old jobs, and their boss, Quincy, Kareme’s twin brother (Quincy Young), punishes them with a dreaded task: they must recover an Xbox from the terrifying Shaw (LaRoyce Hawkins), a hottie gangster with a toothpick lodged in his teeth. But neither of them makes it Simon can’t pass a background check, and Kareme discovers that astronomers are racist. In the pilot, Kareme and Simon ditch their jobs at Rent-T-Own to pursue higher ambitions: Kareme dreams of a career in astronomy, and Simon yearns for the white-collar life. The first season of “South Side” can certainly stand on its own. Such gleeful specificity is a rarity, and so, after the first seasons of “South Side” and “Sherman’s Showcase,” fans steeled themselves for the shows to enter the hallowed bin of single-season greats. You either get the references-to primping culture, to funeral culture-or you don’t. Bashir and Riddle are straight-up comedy and TV geeks: the same month they blessed us with “South Side,” the duo put out “Sherman’s Showcase,” on IFC, a loving and layered sendup of seventies variety shows.Īlthough Riddle-Salahuddin productions are entertaining to viewers of any race, make no mistake-the fun and the farce are pitched to please Black American audiences. But the show débuted, in 2019, on Comedy Central, where it joined a slate of excellent and underwatched indie-ish sitcoms, including “Workaholics,” “Detroiters,” and “The Other Two.” (“The Other Two” has also moved to HBO Max.) In recent years, Comedy Central has become an incubator for joke auteurs-willful classicists who prize, above all else, eliciting belly laughs. “South Side” is now an HBO Max original its second season premièred on the platform last month. The tang of the show’s critique brings to mind other satires of workplace culture, such as “Reno 911” and the genre-shifter “The Office.” But the creators of “South Side”-Salahuddin, his brother, Bashir, and Bashir’s writing partner, Diallo Riddle-cast a wider net: they have crafted a fun-house portrait of Black life in the Second City. “South Side” derives a great deal of its Black black humor from the encounters between its protagonists and the delinquent renters: the physical aspect of product repossession allows for so much slapstick. Its name, a parody of Rent-A-Center, is the bitter, primal joke of the show: a retail center where the true product is debt. Simon (Sultan Salahuddin) and Kareme (Kareme Young) are best friends who grudgingly clock in at Rent-T-Own, a shady furniture-and-appliance-rental service. I suppose it’s accurate to refer to “South Side,” a series set in the Chicago neighborhood of Englewood, as a workplace comedy. 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